Shopping cart

View your shopping cart.

Official PayPal Seal

MailChimp Sign-Up Form

See what's happening on our social media sites




Crashproofing: Basics

Crashproofing: What Do I Need?

Crashproofing: How Difficult is it to Install?

Crashproofing: What Are The Levels?

Crashproofing: What is Foam Prep?

Why You Should Really Upgrade Your Crashproofing

More Specfics About the Different Levels of Crashproofing

What are the Benefits of Higher Levels of Crashproofing?

Crashproofing: Drill Bit Sizes

Crashproofing: Custom Crashproofing?

Beginner Plane Information

How Do I Find the Center of Gravity (CG) in my plane?

Hawksky/Fighter: How do I install the Hawk Straps?

Hawksky/Fighter: How do I keep the hawkfighter canopy on during flight?

Hawksky/Fighter: Which side should the propeller face?

Hawksky/Fighter: Which Hawkfighter is faster? 6 or 7?

Practice on Simulators

Do you have classes to teach me how to fly and/or to Crashproof a plane?

Returns Information

Extra Services Information


How do I track my UPS package?

How do I get more questions answered?



Here is the history of our product!

Top of Page


Reinforcing your foamie gives you two benefits. First, it VASTLY improves the aerobatic capability of any plane by stiffening the airframe, and the wings in particular (after installation, the typical plane can handle 15G maneuvers without breaking or coming apart- you know, the ones that would mash you into goo if you were in the plane!) Second, it makes the plane HIGHLY crash resistant by increasing the structural strength of the foam an average of 300%, and some parts (like the noses) have increases of over 1000%!

Top of Page


Does Crashproofing really work? How many planes do you still have in the air?

As usual, if you make more than $12 an hour, it's an extreme bargain to go for the installed version, BUT- if you plan on doing reinforcement on your planes, you should go for the foam prep and start getting used to the process. I've done the math over 3 years, and, if you factor in just a couple of low speed mishaps, the amount of time and money you save by reinforcing your foams exceeds what you spend, easily. With ONE bad crash, you will make back twice what you paid on the reinforcement. It doesn't sound like much in print, but I still have 82 of the last 85 planes we reinforced in the last 3 years, all ready to fly- and that includes nearly all of the planes you see crashing in all of our videos! (this number doesn't include the Hawkfighters, which I usually give away after 30 or so crashes, because they're not pretty enough to keep making videos with. They're still in the air with the new owners, though, and the record holder so far is a Hawkfighter 5 named "Buckshot" with over FIFTY crashes and one shotgunning on it. You might say that Crashproofing works "extremely well"

Top of Page



Generally, the "if you have to ask" rule applies, meaning if you need practice doing reinforcement installations (drilling 24" deep holes from the wingtip to the root, etc), you might want to do the practice on simpler planes (after first practicing on some 1" foam boards). We've started our camps for teaching how to do this stuff and how to fly, if you're interested. I can tell you this much: if I could have gone to classes like this when I was starting, I could have saved myself the entire first year of figuring all of this out- and keep in mind that I'm a Master Carpenter. We teach you tricks that will actually make things that seem almost impossible very easy to do.

That said, if you're good with your hands and tools, these are fairly easy to install- it's drilling holes and cutting grooves in foam, and you can even do that with sharpened carbon fiber rods. The bits make it easier, but I don't think people should spend the dough unless they're planning to do more planes.

What's the payback for all of this? I learned early on that it wasn't as much fun if I had to do an hour of repair for every 10 minutes of flight. As far as I'm concerned, the single most valuable part of reinforcing your planes is this: having planes that are much harder to break will keep you flying after some mishaps that would have sent you back to the shop. Here's the question- would you rather stay at the field and practice flying, or go home and practice fixing the plane? You can spend your day doing ONE of them... and I know which one I'd rather do!

If you are experienced with tools but have never done this, you should be able to do this after an hours worth of drilling practice on foam (insulation boards — the “old fashioned” (like the pink Dow insulation boards from the 90’s — if you know of a good place to get these, please email us) dense stuff.

If you are NOT experienced with tools, first, get experienced with tools. DO NOT practice on your plane.

If you are NOT experienced with tools, first, get experienced with tools. DO NOT practice on your plane.  If you do not feel confident in your skills, you can ship the plane to us and Steve will "Foam Prep" it or install the kit (you will be responsible for shipping charges, both ways).  See here about the difference between foam prep and installation. is Foam Prep

Also, another great way to get introduced to installing a Crashproofing/Reinforcement kit is to order a Foam Prepped plane from Killer Planes. Then you can get a general idea of how the rods are placed and you will get your first experience with gluing in rods with Gorilla Glue.


Top of Page




We really should change the name of Crashproofing, even though it actually WILL save the plane in a bad crash. But if you never crash it, you still get the benefit of the increased strength and rigidity of the entire airframe, which equals crisper (and more aggreassive) handling. In truth, this is what I actually use it for, since that's what made me start reinforcing planes- i did NOT like it when a wing would crack (or even snap off!) from doing hard maneuvering. The first rods I put in a plane were additional wing spars, after folding up the wings in a high speed dive on a Hawksky (the TopRC FW-190 has 11 additional rods in the wings alone!)


I can say this about how well the reinforcement performs- I literally never put a plane in the air without it, and so I still have 80 of the last 83 planes we reinforced, which includes nearly every plane you see in a bad crash in any of our videos!

Top of Page




To install a Killerplanes Crashproofing kit, you need a drill and hand tools, including an extending blade knife with new blades, and a rasp (like a file but much rougher) or keyhole saw (sheetrock saw) and Gorilla Glue, Foam Tac, contact cement, and hot glue, and a water spraying bottle. Drill bits make it easier, but you can also drill with sharpened rods, as shown in the video instructions that come with the kit. Takes a few hours, and you'll save 10 times that amount of time by being able to keep flying after 25 or so crashes that would have each required an hour or 2 of repairs (If the kit is properly installed, a Hawkfighter can generally absorb about 25 pretty bad "flying speed" crashes before it's toast. We're talking the type of crashes that will destroy parts of, or all of, an unreinforced plane. With Hawkfighters, I sometimes need to change wings after several high speed cartwheel or through-a-tree crashes, so my fuselages usually last through 2, or sometimes 3, sets of wings. (all of my Hawkfigher fuselages have MAX Crashproofing and Noseplates and Bands installed) We paint our dayglo orange and flat black Hawkfighters with Rustoleum spray paint, doing a couple of light coats, and the black accents on the top are done with the fat felt tip markers.


The Do-it-yourself Hawkfighter


The Hawkfighter that's completely done by Killerplanes


The bit set


Carbon Fiber Crashproofing Kits

Top of Page






Mostly you will need Gorilla Glue (probably the 8 oz bottle) for installing your rods. We are also getting good results using Foam Tac to install rods. A hot glue gun is also helpful. Preferably a higher end glue gun that has heat settings. Steve frequently uses his on "HOT" but be careful. This can cause some nasty burns if you get it on your skin. And contact cement and or Epoxy.


Top of Page




We have 3 levels of Crashproofing protection. 

1 - Regular - basic amount of rods. A very good carbon fiber reinforcement kit.

2 - Max Crashproofing - more rods and more protection than the regular kit.

3 - SuperMax Crashproofing - the MOST rods and most protection of all of the kits and some plastic plates too


You can get any of the above as: 

1 - a kit and instructions - you install everything yourself (You do all the work)

2 - a kit and foam prep - We drill the holes in the plane foam (hardest part) and you glue the rods in (We split the work)

3 - Installed - we drill the holes and glue in the rods (We do ALL the work)


To buy your crashproofing kit - Click Here

To look at your next plane - Click Here

Top of Page



When ordering Killer Planes Crashproofing,  "Foam Prep" means we drill all the holes in the foam body, wings, and tail(s) of the airplane. Then we cut all the grooves, pre-cut the rods, and put them in their respective holes and ship the plane. You, then, take out the rods and glue them in according to our detailed gluing instructions. It's the second best value we have- the installed is an even better value, because it works out to about $10 an hour to save yourself the work gluing rods, and wiping off the glue as it expands.

Reinforcement is one of the few things that's actually worth more than it costs -- as soon as you get it. (Immediate return on investment after your first crash) Our customers are way lucky- I had to invent this stuff to get it in my planes, and I destroyed "a few" planes before perfecting it! Save yourself LOADS of dough, and LOADS of time spent repairing planes. Fly it, crash it, and fly it again!


Top of Page




The higher-level kits have combinations of more and/or heavier and/or longer rods in them, which give higher levels of reinforcement and protection. For instance, an FMS fighter Regular Crashproofing kit may have 32 rods, while the Supermax might have 44 rods, some of them being heavier or longer, or both. The individual plane designs vary, but you could say that the Regular Kit installation makes the foam structure in areas like the nose about 8 times stronger, the Max 10 times stronger and the Supermax 12 times stronger- and no, those are not exaggerations! (The strongest area is the nose, followed by the wings, then the tail. For instance, in this video you see a Dynam A-10 with Supermax Crashproofing installed plow a groove in a field at 63MPH, and we simply launched it again after we plugged the motors back in. And no, there's no trick photography or anything. Generally, the planes with motors somewhere other than the nose fare the best in crashes- you're not dealing with any props, spinners,  motors, or other parts at the point where the plane impacts the ground. Properly reinforced foam is the best nose there is!


To buy your crashproofing kit - Click Here

To look at your next plane - Click Here


Top of Page





We strongly recommend the "SUPERMAX" kits- the rods are tricked out the way that we want our personal planes to be, and after 3 years of designing kits we know how to make them so they work! We also have additional "Plastic Plates" for quite a few planes, and this is one of them- it's a set of plates that get glued onto various critical areas of the plane, and they increase the strength at those locations by "factors"- generally between 4 and 15 times stronger (sounds like bull, doesn't it?) And by "15 times" we actually mean what used to take 2 pounds to crush now takes 30 pounds, etc, etc.

To buy your crashproofing kit - Click Here

To look at your next plane - Click Here

Top of Page



It sounds like you're interested in reinforcing more planes, too-  in which case it would be a really good idea for you to upgrade the FW-190 to a SUPERMAX kit- you'll get much better protection in that plane, and it will show you a LOT about where to put rods in your other planes, what dimension rods to use, etc. Below is some info about the different reinforcement levels. If you want to upgrade to the SUPERMAX, just email me back and I"ll send a payment link.

Also, if you are going to be reinforcing your other foamies, I would also advise getting the "everyday" bit set that we use in the shop, which includes 2 more 6" bits, 3 more 12" bits, and 1 more 18" bit. These added bits will give you the diameters you need for all the different size rods. There are another several bits we stock that we don't use as much, but the others I named above we do use - literally every day. Normally I don't like to spend other people's money, but since you're in NZ, adding them later would cost a lot in shipping that you could save now- the added bits would probably be only a bit more than the additional shipping alone.

Top of Page



At this point, we've heard "I would have upgraded if I knew that!" from so many people we send this information about the upgrades to everybody who orders "Regular" Crashproofing. And here's the first thing to consider- this is your one chance to get your plane in the hands of our master craftsmen. We advise you make the best of it - it's much better than kicking yourself later!

The "Regular" levels of our designs are all based on my own early flying, which was much lower speed and much less "radical" in terms of aerobatics. As I got more experienced, the reinforcement designs I did were intended to give me the same level of protection at higher speeds, and in crashes from higher altitudes, as well as airframe reinforcement that could handle the stress of more aggressive maneuvers, like snapping out of a high speed dive without folding up the wings. The biggest problem with having lower levels of protection is that many people's flying abilities increase quite rapidly, leaving them with an under-protected plane. Consequently, unless your intention is to remain at the "fly a few circuits and land" level of piloting, you're much better off reinforcing your plane for your future as a fighter jockey- it's probably much closer than you think!

For starters, EPO type foam is a great material for making planes for many reasons- but it's not able to withstand stresses from many circumstances outside the intended use, which, of course, is flying. Nobody (except for us, of course!) INTENDS to crash their plane, so the planes are not designed to handle that. They ARE designed to break in crashes, which gives the manufacturers exactly what they want- lots of money made by selling replacement parts. Here's a simple fact to consider- we stopped ordering any foam replacement parts from distributors several years ago, because our customers don't buy them. We still have over 90% of the replacement parts we included in our first order 4 years ago, sitting taking up space in our warehouse. They'll probably sit there forever. Other sellers, you may have noticed, are quite often out of stock in their foam replacement parts catalogs, since they do a brisk business selling new foam parts to customers who undoubtedly believed they'd never need them. Har de har har.

But I digress. Let's get back to the topic
The higher levels of reinforcement (MAX and SUPERMAX) have greater levels of protection and airframe strengthening by adding combinations of more and/or heavier and/or longer rods. For instance, the front wingtip rod is 6" in most FMS 1400mm Regular kits, 10" in the MAX, and 12" to 18" in the SUPERMAX. The Full Wing Rod (from the tip to the root) is not in the regular kit. In most planes, the Full Wing Rod in the MAX kit is a 4mm tube, and in the SUPERMAX a 5mm tube. The rest of the design differences between kits are like that. Generally, if you're prepping the plane yourself, you'll need to drill deeper holes (for instance, 12" to 18" rather than 6") for many MAX and SUPERMAX rods, and you'll need to drill more holes for rods that aren't in the regular kit at all.

You can tell the difference in protection by looking at your plane, and seeing how many weak points are crossed by shorter rods vs longer ones. For instance, with most Regular Kits, the wingtip front corner is protected by the 6" front rod, which will keep the wingtip intact in things like a tip-over on landing. The long front rod of the SUPERMAX also crosses the areas with weak points, like servo pockets and other cutouts in the foam, giving much more strength and protection (wings tend to crack starting at cutouts like servo pockets and inside corners like at the end of the aileron). so, in the MAX kit, this front wingtip rod is longer, and a Full Wing Rod (wingtip to wing root) is added at the middle of the wingtip. The SUPERMAX kits have a heavier Full Wing Rod, and most have a third rod in the trailing edge of the wingtip. The noses get the same type of increases as the wings in number, diameter, and length of rods, and the SUPERMAX kits also have a number of small diameter rods protecting many thin, easily breakable parts of the plane.

The fuselages are protected with rods that start at the nose, as far forward as the specific plane allows. Most planes have at least 2 rods that go from nose to tail, many have 3, and some have 4.  Most planes with spinners have rods that go to the back of the spinner, and most removable cowls have separate rods. Wherever possible, the main fuselage rods extend to the front point of the cowl to absorb impact energy starting as close as possible to the front of the nose. More and/or longer and/or heavier rods are used in the nose in MAX and SUPERMAX designs.

Planes like the fully tricked out HAWKFIGHTER (our flagship design) have plastic nose and wing root plates as well, bringing the survivability of the fuselage to new, unheard of levels. The HAWKFIGHTER 6.5 test plane was impaled straight into the ground (on a lawn) to a depth of 3" or more in THREE "flying speed" test crashes before we even made the sales video - and the Hawkfighter 6.5 has a 70+MPH top speed!  (We just wanted to make sure it worked. LOL.) I like to show that footage to people who say "You can't crashproof a plane". They're right - you can't. "Crashproofing" is just a trade name, but the reality is this- you CAN make a plane WAAAYYY harder to break, and that is exactly what our Crashproofing does.  Another thing you'll read in forums is that "heavier planes fly like crap". Our Hawkfighter is nearly DOUBLE the weight of the Hawksky it's made from (1220g vs 625g), and it has a 20% smaller wingspan to boot. Here's a video showing the performance and handling of the Hawkfighter 7. It's a good thing to keep in mind when reading the authoritative sounding proclamations on forums written by people who have never flown (or even SEEN) one of our reinforced planes.

Simply described, the Regular Kits will protect previously unprotected areas of your plane for low speed (5 to 10 MPH) impacts, like a flubbed landing, and they do a great job of that. The MAX kits will minimize damage to your plane for impacts during low speed, low altitude flying. The SUPERMAX kits will minimize damage from higher speed impacts, and add protection to a lot of the types of places that can get torn on a car door, etc. All 3 levels add rigidity to your airframe for better handling, and the higher levels of reinforcement provide much more rigidity for FAR less wing flex, etc., giving you crisper, cleaner handling.

As far as weight, you can see how all of the planes handle in our videos. ALL of the planes in our videos have SUPERMAX Crashproofing installed, as well as additional Plastic Plate kits and other weight added, like bigger batteries. Some planes we add even more weight to, to increase the realistic look of the flight characteristics. In short, there are exactly zero planes in our videos that don't have a lot of added weight for the test flights.

Top of Page



We don't have issues with the weight we add with reinforcement, bigger batteries, cameras, etc. with most planes. There are a couple I have tested that do not handle extra weight too well, but that is like 2 out of 90. People who talk about weight not being good on planes obviously do not have much experience with it; mostly they are just repeating what they have heard forever- "extra weight is bad". I would put it like this- "extra weight that does nothing for you is bad", which is why I like to replace the big nose weights most foamies have with reinforcement, bigger batteries, etc. If you have seen our videos, you have seen how the planes fly with about 30% extra weight piled on. Some have as much as 50%, and the Hawkfighter, which is built from the  Hawksky airframe, weighs nearly TWICE as much as the Hawksky (1150g vs 625g), and has a lot less wing area to boot. Personally, I'd say the Hawkfighter flies a LOT better and lasts 8 to 10 times longer than the Hawksky.

Top of Page



Yes, there's Gorilla glue all over the inside of the fuselage because there's supposed to be. Occasionally we do get an email from somebody who does not like the looks of the gorilla glue. The concept is to get as close to embedding the rods as possible with expanded plastic foam- that is a hugely important part of reinforcing the planes. It is a lot harder to see on fighters, etc. Sorry if some glue got on a window- that does slip by us sometimes. You should be able to pop Gorilla glue on windows right off with a fingernail.

Top of Page



Great news - if you just bought a HawkSky or HawkFighter, we now have a video that shows you how to install the straps on these planes. Just email Denise at and ask her to give you access to the private video. Sorry this is only available to customers who have purchased a HawkSky or HawkFighter.

Your HawkSky/HawkFighter will come with at least 2 large white plastic tie wraps that we call “wing straps.” Here is what you do with them:

The rear strap is drilled through the motor mount just aft of the front bottom screw (right above the foam). You drill with a 1/8" or so drillbit through the motor mount about 1/8" above the foam, and widen the hole with the bit enough to fit the strap through. The strap goes up through one wing, through the mount, and down through the other wing and around the bottom.

The front strap goes through the wings and around the fuselage right in front of the servos that are under the wing.

You should be drilling the straps through the wing on the outside of the front-to-back rod in the wing root, so if you should hit that rod while drilling, move the bit to the outside side of it. The straps hold the fuselage top and bottom together, and hold the wings on. They multiply the strength of the plane in that entire area by more than 6 times, so they're important!

Refer to this video:

INSTALLING WING/FUSELAGE STRAPS (This video does not use the HawkSky or HawkFighter as an example, but it’s the general idea)

NOTE: You do NOT have to add the rubber tubing in the holes if it is too complicated, but this gives you and idea of what to do.

Top of Page



The cable ties are for making fuselage straps, and they hold the wings. Motor and top of the fuselage on. You drill the straps through the wings right at the side of the fuselage, on the OUTSIDE of the front to back rod that's embedded in the wing at the root. The rear strap goes through the motor mount and the front strap goes in front of the elevator/rudder servos (the ones under the wing root).

The rear strap gets drilled through the motor mount, just behind the screw in the bottom front corner. Drill 3 1/8" holes right next to each other, just behind the screw in the bottom front corner, and 1/8" above where the motor mount sits on the foam top of the plane. Clean out the remaining plastic with the bit or a knife to make a wide "slot" for the strap. If you got the 10" cable ties, put 2 together to make one strap (the new cable ties are long enough to go all the way around with a single one). To see how it is done, check out this video. You don't need the flattened plastic tube that goes through the wing- that's just an added finishing touch that will keep the wings nice if you take them off a lot. It does also keep the hole in the wing from getting enlarged by flight and crash stresses.

Straps like these will work the same on any plane, especially the top motor designs like the Hawksky. They add an amazing amount of strength to the plane! While it's pretty easy to tear a 4" thick foam plane in half in a crash, it's almost impossible to tear one of the straps in half. Someday we will have to do the actual math with a stress meter, but for now, saying it is 10 times stronger wouldn't be far off the mark.


Top of Page



We use canopy straps instead of magnets on the Hawkfighter, which keeps the canopy on in the hard crashes.  We like to use a long strip of hook and groove (Velcro) wrapping all the way around the fuselage and canopy.  Also we've started putting a piece of 2mm rod through the canopy that sticks into a hole, diagonally, on the inside of the fuselage. This seems to work like a charm!

Wher to buy a canopy with a "chin strap" (or just look at the photo and make your own!)


We also put ram air vents in the cockpit sides for the ESC- just use some vinyl tube and hotglue

Top of Page



*** FOR ALL HawkSkys and HawkFighters, the numbers on the prop face the motor and the front (nose) of the plane.

The writing should face the front of the plane (or the nose of the plane, NOT  towards the tail).

The HawkFighter 7 is a custom 7 x 7 x 3 prop, since nobody makes one. 

HawkFighter 7 prop:

HawkFighter 6 prop:

Email Denise at if you need to purchase a spare HawkSky propeller or you can get one here with an extra Motor:

You can go here for spare motors and props:

NOTE: The approximate location of the CG HawkFighter 7 -  approx ⅛" forward of the center wing spar panel at the bottom of the plane.

Top of Page



The HF7 is a smidge under the speed of the HF6, which goes about 75, but the 7 gets 15% more time on the same battery. You can see the relative speed in these 2 vids, both running a 2700mah 3s 30c battery.



Top of Page



All of the drill bits are fractional sizes and all of the carbon fiber rods are in metric sizes. How do I find the drill that matches the rod size?


It's easy to convert from inches to centimeters or vice versa with the World Wide Web.  Just open your favorite browser (FireFox, Google Chrome, Safari, etc.) and in the search field enter convert inches to centimeters or go to this link:

Then enter the width of the drill bit in the enter length area

Click the convert to centimeters button 

There's your answer. Just remember to use a slightly smaller drill bit diameter than the diameter of your carbon fiber rod

Here is a quick conversion chart:

Drill Bit Diameter

(in Inches)

Rod Diameter

(in millimeters)

Rod Diameter

(in centimeters)


1.5875 mm

.15875 cm


1.98438 mm

.198438 cm


2.7 mm

.27 cm


2.38 mm

.238 cm


3.175 mm

.3175 cm


4.7625 mm

.47625 cm





154.2 mm

15.42 cm


304.8 mm

30.48 cm


457.2 mm

45.72 cm


609.6 mm

60.96 cm

Top of Page



We think the best way to have loads of fun (as opposed to the ABSOLUTE bummer of a crash that stops your flying for the day 40 seconds into the flight- or whenever) is to get your chops on an aerobatic trainer that bounces without breaking in most crashes, so you can simply launch it again, and keep flying. I may say this again below, but you can learn to fly, or you can learn to go home and fix broken planes- it just depends on the plane you are flying!

Give this text a perusal, and then get back to me. As I say, I think it's a good idea to get the "target plane" that you're dying to fly, and have it as a reward for doing 15 flights in a row without any "unplanned landings". But doing this in a 1-2-3 setup (1- simulator; 2- Crashproofed Hawksky  3- Planes with props in front and other breakable parts, like nice (expensive) landing gear) is the most likely way to get you firmly into this VERY enjoyable hobby without being discouraged- and breaking a lot of expensive, time consuming stuff on planes can be very discouraging. Conversely, learning to really handle a plane so you can sling it around with true confidence is one of the most enjoyable things I've ever done! And after learning plane handling, I re-experienced flying a WW2 fighter- what a difference!! If flying RC is fun, slinging around a muscular fighter plane is an entirely new level of enjoyment!

Also, fly on a good simulator for your first 100 crashes- you'll save a lot of planes. Remember "Crashproofing" is a cute trade name, like all cute trade names just meant to be memorable. Our planes may be the hardest EPO planes to break on the planet, but they're still breakable. Reinforcing a plane  makes it come through crashes in far better shape than it does if it's not reinforced, and it's relative. Using some examples gleaned from our 4 years of testing, we can describe the results like this: if your plane would crack in a 5MPH crash, now it won't crack. If the nose would be broken in 4 places in a 20 MPH crash, now it will only be cracked in one. If the original plane gets mangled into the trash can in a 45 MPH crash, now it will be cracked in 3 places instead, and easy to repair by gluing the cracks closed. Typically, a reinforced plane will last through about 20 bad crashes- "bad" meaning the type of crash that would have you working on your mangled plane for a couple of hours in a shop, typically adding quite a bit of weight in glue and materials. Even if an unreinforced plane is repairable, it will be in the garbage after 3 or 4 of these types of "flying speed" crashes, whereas a properly reinforced plane will last 4 to 5 times longer. Anyway, the thing to do before you fly is lots of simulator time. Afterwards, fly a reinforced plane. The main reason? In a simulator, planes want to fly. In real life, planes want to crash. So, after you're great on the sim, you're still going to put some planes in!


Top of Page



We have all our students and novices start on a Dynam Hawksky with SUPER MAX Crashproofing and "Noseplates and Bands" to add more protection to the nose. In this configuration, the plane can survive most crashes at flying speed with little or no damage, which keeps you flying, which is how you learn to fly! We advise getting an extra battery so you can fly for 30 minutes at a time (2 batteries worth) Hopefully, you're not flying around trees- if you are, you should get a power upgrade so you can "nail it and yank", and climb away from the tree instead of stalling and falling back in- remember- trees are foam magnets! You should start with a simulator to get used to how the controls work, and get yourself to a level on the sim where you're not constantly crashing, and then practice landings and some other maneuvers on the sim. After that, it's time to start crashing a real plane! Don't get discouraged- EVERYBODY crashes a LOT when learning to fly. You'll probably go through 2 crashproofed Hawkskys (or about 10 non-reinforced Hawkskys or similar) before you really have a handle on it. At this point, we have the Hawkfighter up to crashes of about 50MPH with little or no damage- the HawkSky's stronger, more agile, and MUCH faster fighter version. Here's the Hawksky and Hawkfighter pages on the website-

You can also try the FMS Easy Trainer 1280:


Top of Page



The CG or COG is a specific location on each plane, usually measured back from the front of the wing root. which stays the same always. You use that location as your fulcrum to balance the plane by adding or subtracting weight in front or behind. Slighly nose heavy is better than tail heavy when balancing. Adding reinforcement will change the balance, usually by making the plane tail heavy, so you need to check it. Most foamies come with a manual that will give you a measurement for the CG that you can use as a guide.  Start from that suggested measurement point and balance the plane from there.

This link may help

You can try these Videos as well

The approximate location of the CG HawkFighter 7 -  approx ⅛" forward of the center wing spar panel at the bottom of the plane.

Top of Page



Statement of fact: All sellers who describe fighters as "beginner" planes are looking to make a lot of money on you replacing your plane a few times while you get a handle on keeping them in the air. They love beginners because traditionally, beginners go through many planes. Not Killer Planes beginners, though! Our aim is to keep your replacement plane purchases to a minimum, and your fun time to a maximum. There's one sure way to do that- and this is it!

Here's my question: Are you at the level where you've pretty much stopped crashing when flying an RC plane? My reason for asking is this- Crashproofing might keep the foam intact on your new, gorgeous fighter- but not your plastic. That stuff can be a huge time-eating (and FUN-eating!) pain in the butt, and expensive. We try to keep all our newer students on the Hawksky or Hawkfighter until they get "plane handling" down- those 2 planes have much more effective Crashproofing all around, because of the motor in back design- and the top level Hawkfighter is now up to handling 40+MPH crashes with little or no cracks. Although our claims are far less, the truth is that I've done 60+MPH crashes (at low angles in grass) with Hawkfighters, and after a half dozen cartwheels, picked up the plane and launched it again! We have a few on video doing that at about 50MPH, with little or no damage. Planes with the prop in front? NOT the same.

Hawkfighter 4 in SPECTACULAR crash!









If you've seen me flying on Youtube, you know how I can handle a plane. I learned ALL my moves (including all the glorious dives into stationary objects, Steve?) starting with a Crashproofed Hawksky, and then a Hawkfighter. I learned them fast because I could try a maneuver, like a high speed dive into a ground skimming hard turn-  and when I bit it, I could do something unlike all other pilots- I could say, "Let's try that again"- and then pick up my plane and try it again!

To sum up, my advice is always the same- get the chops down using planes that bounce rather than break, and then put up the planes with breakable parts. Of course, being a lifelong fighter enthusiast, I also experienced the longing for the NICE plane right away (it's what led me here in the first place), so I bought a few Corsairs and Mustangs before I fully learned to handle an RC plane.  I did wreck them all, though, which led me to start what became Crashproofing- I want to KEEP my nice planes nice, and still be able to fly them like a maniac. But I did have to have them! Now, you guys all benefit from our nearly 3 years of full time testing of reinforcement. Good EPO foam and Carbon Fiber were born to be together!

Top of Page



As we tell all our students, in a sim, planes want to fly. In the air, planes want to crash. You should keep in mind that there are VERY few new pilots who don't crash a lot, even after sim time- my own experiences with crash frequency are what led me to design crashproofing, and I'm actually pretty much a natural born stick and rudder man.

After doing a number of hours on a sim, we have all our students start with the Dynam Hawksky with Max Crashproofing and Noseplates and Bands (you can find those in the pulldown menus here on the Killerplanes Hawksky page)

We hope to carry one or both of these simulators in the future (we are working on becoming suppliers). May we recommend one of these to you:

RealFlight Simulator 7 or 7.5 (or most current model) FOR THE MAC: Ikarus Aerofly 5/5.7 (or most current model)">

The Ikarus Aerofly 5/5.7 (or most current model)


Top of Page



The simulator is great for learning how to "handle" a plane, which is to say, how to turn left or right, how to climb and dive, and like that. Then, it's a MUST for practicing how to FLY a plane- it's much better to do your first 100 crashes in the simulator, because you simply launch the plane again after a crash (for the crash, more expensive simulators even have the plane fly apart and the pieces go bouncing- loads of fun!) BUT- (and that's a big but) the important difference between simulators and planes is this: in the simulator, planes want to fly. In the air, planes want to crash. Even after you've gotten the simulator down like a champ, you can expect to be doing crashing, somewhere between "a little" and "every time you fly the plane", until you get the PLANE figured out. For this reason, I designed my first crash proofing kits, and they're now at the level where they work FAR better than I ever expected. That said, it's also true that some planes are easier to make more resilient than others, because of their specific design and material. The big question: which planes are those?

Top of Page



The simulator software doesn't work on a few specific models of computers- we're not PC people so I dunno why, and we don't keep a list of which models those few are, since those models are "iffy", meaning it works on a few of them, but there's no way of telling which. If you want learn to fly using a simulator, which will save you hundreds of dollars of planes, it's even worth it to get something like the more expensive Windows flight simulator, Ikarus, or Realflight- . In that case, buy a version that's software only, without the controller, and use this controller to save some bucks. (this is what we do for the other computers in our studio- we use these controllers with whichever flight simulator software we have on them)  The FMS simulator software that comes with the package is freeware- the controller is what you're paying for. If you don't want to use the controller with other software and you have the original discs and packaging, email back and I'll give you an RMA number to return it, no problem.

Top of Page



Sadly we do not have the time, money or manpower to bench test each and every plane we sell. If you would like this service we generally charge around $30.00. It may be best to ask Steve how much the service will cost by emailing When we test planes we actually test them by plugging everything in (including the lights) and working all the servos, gear, and the throttle. If the order includes a receiver, we remove the bind plug, unplug the plane, and restart everything to test that the Rx binds properly, and re-test all the servos and the motor, since it only takes a few seconds to move the sticks around. When the order includes a battery we do all the tests with that battery. Of course, after a test we only ship the plane if everything works as it should! - We test the planes with a Spektrum Dx7, and we check all the electronics, right down to the direction and throw of the servos, the gear and doors, the set points on the flaps, and full power motor run up with a motor/ESC meter test for power and draw.

To Order this service for your plane do the following:

Go to Click on the boxes that add up to $30.00. Click on "Add to cart." .  Make sure to copy and paste or write exactly the following in the comments field: “For testing the electronics on order #_____ ”.  Check out as usual!

Top of Page



To get a Crashproofing kit on a plane we don't have on our list, send the unassembled plane, as it comes from the factory, with any instructions etc. The Crashproofing instructions will interface with these when we're done, and the rods will be installed as you assemble the plane. 

 If you're going to send the plane, we'll set you up with a down payment link so you get an order number, etc. The kit prices for planes around 1700mm wingspan run about $90 for the regular, and about $130 for the SUPERMAX, and the drilling is about the same. We advise going for the SUPERMAX kits in bigger planes, since they have more mass, which has a greater effect on the impact areas (if you should happen to have  a mishap), and more stress from G forces during aerobatics, landing, etc

Top of Page



We haven't done any test crashes with the 1700mm planes- they're too nice! However, the SUPERMAX kits on the 1400mm FMS planes allow for crashes from 30 feet up with little (minor crack) or no damage on the P-51, P-47, P-38, Spitfire, new Me109, T-28, Corsair, and B-25 (we crashed all of those, and broke props and cracked some plastic on all, and cracked a wing ONLY on the P-38)


Top of Page



You can remove the motor mount; shave down the foam behind the motor. That will move the motor back as far as you shave it down. The easiest way to "shave" stuff like that is to do a 90˚ bend 1" long on the end of an old butter knife, and heat it on a torch and use it to slice foam off at the area behind the motor, or just melt it down by pressing the hot knife in. Do it in a ventilated area, of course. Check your depth with a ruler before and during the removal, and do the final motor mount install on the slightly uneven surface in a bed of silicone for an even fit. (You put a thick bead of silicone on the back of the mount and press it in to where you want it. Do other fastening after the silicone cures. You should leave at least 1/8" clearance behind the spinner, if that is the reason you are moving the motor back.

Top of Page


EXTRAS FOR THE DYNAM ME 262 – Extras installed to plane?

We never did get the stuff posted- it's so much of a pain to make all the entries in the various parts of the site to make that work. The list of stuff is:

Re-wire ESCs & Receiver for double battery operation - $35

Set up battery compartment for double battery - $25

MAX Crashproofing with vents installed- includes ram air vents (2) for battery and ESC, induction vent (1) for bat & ESC, and exhaust ports (2). All vents constructed of viinyl tubing (with free cannon barrels for you to install) $175 (If you want the way-fancy cannon port vents, those add another $30)

Bottom wing prep & finish (plastic covers for servos, filler in openings, remove nubs from mold, etc) - $35

Paint the plane (tiger stripe camo like mine or "mottled" german camo, like we did on the Dynam Me109) - $60

That adds up to $330, but it's $280 if you get it all. (Alternatively, $305 with the cannon port vents, which have cannon barrels in them- pretty cool) We have also designed a flap system for the plane, if you're into that. If you want it, we will email the specifics of how to add it on.

Using the double battery setup I did, (double 3000mAh 4s 30c) the plane does over 90MPH, and does a shallow power dive like a strafing pass over 100MPH

If we know the batteries you are using and their dimensions and weight, we can balance the plane for them and reinstall the nose. If not, we advise having us leave the nose off, so you can do your balance weights there- you use way less weight if it's all the way in the nose

Top of Page


RETURNS – link to the return policy

You can return your item for a refund of the item price if it is in the original packaging and in new condition. Returns will be made after inspection of the item to ensure it meets these conditions.  Please email to get an RMA number.





Killer Planes

11 River Park Drive

New Paltz, NY 12561

Top of Page



To pay, go to the link below, and click on any boxes that add up to your total of $ XXXX . Then click "ADD TO CART" and check out.

When checking out, please copy this info into the checkout comments.




Payment link:

Top of Page



For Current Classes - Click Here

We presently have 3 levels of classes-   beginner and intermediate, and a more focused one that's an RC combat aerobatic lesson plan. For that, you'd want to be an intermediate RC pilot, and we can do a half day or whole day with lunch together, and you then take the lessons home and practice.  The end result of all this practice, of course, would be to end up flying like I do- my flying style is modifications of aggressive WW2 style combat maneuvering, for air to air combat with sonic combat modules, which acts like wing guns- line up on their 6 and hose 'em, which takes out their motor for 5 seconds- screaming fun like kids have! This flying style is also good for ribbon cutting combat, or driving your dogs crazy, if you have dogs like ours. I have thousands of flights by now, but you'll be well on the way after just a few practice sessions- it's all about teaching your hand some new muscle memory (that sounds so wrong). We offer day classes year round for anybody that wants them, but the regular class schedule will start up in the spring.

Top of Page




After doing all that work on the plane, I'd recommend protection- you can use clear packing tape wrapped around the leading edge of the wing, up to the slight curve by the tip, to keep from banging the wing edge on weeds etc. You can even cover the wing with it, but it's a pain to get straight, since you can't move it. We use 3M "MAILING TAPE", which is medium thickness and very sticky. Tape that's too thick is as bad as too thin, because it doesn't conform to all the tiny contours of the foam and won't stick down as well. To do the leading edge, first cut a strip of tape that's as long as any straight part of the leading edge. Center the widthtape on the edge and start rubbing there, using a folded paper towel pad, and rub it down towards the rear on top and bottom in strokes that go lengthwise, while holding the rear edge up until you're ready to rub it down. You can't do this process around a curve in the wing, whether it's curved in the front view (like a gull wing or upturned wingtip) or a curve or angle when viewed from the top (like the angle on a Mustang wing), because the tape will wrinkle and buckle at the curved parts.

Top of Page


crash proofing "authorities"


Yes, there are a lot of authorities out there...who've never seen a plane with reinforcement added. Usually, when I look for information about something, I find the people with the most actual firsthand information, and ask them. When someone tells you their opinion of something they've never seen, you get... someone's opinion of something they've never seen. I guess that's enough for some people! Me? I can tell you this much - in testing my designs we discovered that reinforcing foam works so well that we spent the time and money to file for a patent!

Top of Page




If it's a Dynam Transmitter Receiver, you MUST turn it on "backwards" like this (any variation from this will end up not working). For our purposes, we'll call starting up "plane first" like this the "Dynam Way"



1- plug plane battery in FIRST

2- Turn on transmitter AFTER the plane is plugged in

3- wait 2 seconds for chimes

4- flip the "arming" switch on the side of transmitter off, then back on

5- wait 2 seconds for final chime

6- throttle should work now


In theory, you should be able to start up in the "normal" order (turn on transmitter first, plug plane battery in second) after you bind the Dynam Tx/Rx at the first start-up, but I found that half of the time it doesn't work. Therefore, I start up Dynam Transmitters and Receivers the "Dynam way" every time, and I have no problems

Top of Page




Try this link for Orange Receivers -


Hobby King OrangeRX R610 Spektrum DSM2 6 Channel 2.4 Ghz Receiver User Guide

The Hobby King Orange 6 Channel Receiver features DSM2™ technology and is compatible with all Spektrum™ and JR® aircraft transmitters that support DSM2 technology, like the 12X, X9303, DX7, DX6i, DX5e and Module Systems .Note: The OrangeRX R610 Receiver receivers are not compatible with the DX6 park flyer radio system.
Compatible with all Spektrum DSM2 Air transmitters.
OrangeRx receivers are built using original components and MCUs and with state of the art SMT automation to ensure a quality product each and every time.
All OrangeRx receivers are QC tested before leaving the factory.
The OrangeRx will work with ANY Aircraft Spektrum DSM2 2.4Ghz transmitter
The OrangeRx 6ch is only 3.7g in weight and 19.5x30x10mm in size. Great for small planes, helis, parkflyers or even medium sized sport planes.
Key features.
Super light weight 3.7g / 9.8 grams with case.
Compatible with DSM2 1024/2048 aircraft radio and module systems.
6 Channels.
Compact design 19.5mm x 30mm x 10mm, with case 43x22x13mm.
Short 29mm antennas for mounting in almost any location.
Input voltage: 3.7~9.6V.

Satellite port included. (Increased redundancy and link strength)
Two CYP chips used. Making it a true outdoor receiver system.
12 Month replacement guarantee!
OrangeRx R610 DSM2 Compatible receiver
i) This is not a Spektrum receiver, nor is it a copy of a Spektrum Receiver.
The Spektrum brand is a trademark of Horizon Hobbies USA.
ii) Price of this receiver may fluctuate (up or down) due to cost of electronic components.
iii) This is not an underground black market fake Spektrum receiver. OrangeRx quality is guaranteed.

The OrangeRX R610 receiver must be bound to the transmitter before it will operate. Binding is the process of teaching the receiver the specific code of the transmitter so it will only connect to that specific transmitter.

1. To bind an OrangeRX R610 to a DSM2 transmitter, insert the bind plug in the BATT/BIND port on the receiver.
Note: To bind an aircraft with an electronic speed controller that powers the receiver through the throttle channel (ESC/BEC), insert the bind plug into the BATT/BIND port in the receiver and the throttle lead into the throttle (THRO) port. Proceed to Step #2.

2. Power the receiver. Note that the LED on the receiver should be flashing, indicating that the receiver is in bind mode and ready to be bound to the transmitter.

3. Move the sticks and switches on the transmitter to the desired failsafe positions (low throttle and neutral control positions).

4. Follow the procedures of your specific transmitter to enter Bind Mode, the system will connect within a few seconds. Once connected, the LED on the receiver will go solid indicating the system is connected.

5. Remove the bind plug from the BATT/BIND port on the receiver before you power off the transmitter.

6. After you’ve set up your model, it’s important to rebind the system so the true low throttle and neutral control surface positions are set.

IMPORTANT: Remove the bind plug to prevent the system from entering bind mode the next time the power is turned on.

Range Testing
Before each flying session and especially with a new model, it is important to perform a range check. All Spektrum aircraft transmitters incorporate a range testing system which, when activated, reduces the output power, allowing a range check.
1. With the model restrained on the ground, stand 30 paces (approx. 90 feet/28 meters) away from the model.
2. Face the model with the transmitter in your normal flying position and place your transmitter into range check mode.
3. You should have total control of the model with the button depressed at 30 paces (90 feet/28 meters).

Receiver Power System Requirements
Inadequate power systems that are unable to provide the necessary minimum voltage to the receiver during flight have become the number one cause of in-flight failures. Some of the power system components that affect the ability to properly deliver adequate power include:

• Receiver battery pack (number of cells, capacity, cell type, state of charge)
• The ESC’s capability to deliver current to the receiver in electric aircraft
• The switch harness, battery leads, servo leads, regulators etc.
The AR6100/AR6100e has a minimum operational voltage of 3.5 volts; it is highly recommended the power system be tested per the guidelines below.

The OrangeRX R610 features a failsafe. When signal is lost the throttle channel only is driven to its preset failsafe position (normally low throttle) while all other channels hold last command.
• Prevents unintentional electric motor response on start-up.
• Eliminates the possibility of over-driving servos on start-up by storing preset failsafe positions.
• Establishes low-throttle failsafe and maintains last-commanded control surface position if the RF signal is lost.
Receiver Power Only
• In electric aircraft, when the receiver only is turned on (no transmitter signal is present), the throttle channel has no output, to avoid operating or arming the electronic speed control.
Note: Some analog servos may coast slightly even though no signal is present. This is normal.
• All other channels hold their last commanded positions set during binding.
After Connection
• When the transmitter is turned on, and after the receiver connects to the transmitter, normal control of all channels occurs.
• After the system makes a connection, if loss of signal occurs, Failsafe drives the throttle servo only to its preset failsafe position (low throttle) that was set during binding.
• All other channels hold their last commanded position. When the signal is regained, the system immediately (less than 4ms)

Top of Page



Just go here

And click on the teal blue box labeled "Track now" on the very right of the screen (located in a yellow box that says "get started"

Copy and paste your tracking number in the  blue box on the left of the screen that says "Track by Number" And click the blue "Track" button. (Your tracking number should have been sent to you in a couple of emails. One from Denise at Killer Planes and at least one from UPS)

Top of Page




I don’t want to bombard you/Steve with questions.  What is the best way to go about posing those questions?  Should I send pictures?  Please help.

We are so sorry, but we do not have the "people power" at this time to have a telephone help line. Please send you questions (in this format to expedite an answer) to  Steve will try to answer as soon as possible, but again we are short staffed and thank you for your patience and understanding.

Please include in the subject line of your email: YOUR ORDER #, YOUR NAME, BRIEF WORDS TO DESCRIBE YOUR QUESTION

Then in the body of your email: Please include the Plane Manufacturer, Name of plane (ie. Dynam A-10 with retracts, or FMS P-51 Ferocious Frankie 1400mm), OR type of kit (i.e. Dynam A-10 with retracts SUPERMAX Crashproofing Kit. OR anything else pertinent to what you ordered and what your question is about.



Please email

We will try to answer your questions as soon as possible, but we get MANY emails, so please be patient



Top of Page